MileGrade

Buying & Financing

Lease vs. Buy Calculator

The lease payment taken apart into the pieces federal law makes the dealer print — capitalized cost, residual, money factor — and set against financing the same car over the same months. The lease payment will be lower. That is not the answer.

The lease

The negotiated price of the car, plus anything rolled into the lease — acquisition fee, taxes, a prior loan balance. Not the sticker.

Cash, trade-in and rebates applied to lower the cap cost. Blank means none.

What the lease says the car is worth at the end. Your worksheet gives it as a percentage of MSRP — multiply it out.

A small decimal like .00250, not a percentage. Multiply it by 2400 to read it as an APR — this tool does that for you below.

Sales tax on the payment, in the states that tax leases that way, plus any monthly fee. Your worksheet itemises these. Blank means none.

Anything paid up front that was not capitalized — registration, doc fees. Blank means none.

Charged when you hand the car back. Commonly $350–$495, and easy to forget it exists.

What you pay for every mile over the allowance. Leave blank to ignore mileage entirely — but if you drive more than the lease allows, this is often the largest surprise in the whole agreement.

Buying the same car

What you would actually pay for the same car, after any discount or rebate you personally qualify for.

Use the same amount you put into the lease if you want a fair comparison. Blank means none.

The annual percentage rate on the financing, not the interest rate quoted before fees.

This does not have to match the lease. If the loan runs longer, you are still paying — and still owe a balance — when the lease would have ended, and both are counted below.

Sales tax on the full price, title and registration — most states charge this at purchase rather than monthly. Blank means none.

The one figure you have to estimate — and the lease hands you a defensible one. The residual value above is the leasing company's own professional forecast of what this exact car is worth on that exact date, with their money on it. Start there.

Used to work out whether you would go over the lease's allowance. It does not change the buying side — a buyer has no mileage limit, though the miles do come out of the resale figure above.

Cost of monthsYour figures

Leasing costs you

everything paid, nothing owned at the end

Buying costs you

paid out, less the car you still hold

Fill in the lease terms, the same car's purchase terms, and what you think it will be worth when the lease would have ended.

Lease payment, per month
Loan payment, per month

The lease payment, line by line

Adjusted capitalized cost
Depreciation over the term
  ÷ months
Rent charge, per month
Money factor read as an APR
vs. to borrow
Miles over the allowance

Buying the same car

Amount financed
Paid out over months
Still owed on the loan
Equity — what selling would leave you

The two monthly payments are not the comparison. A lease payment covers only the depreciation you use plus a rent charge; a loan payment buys the whole car. The lease payment is nearly always lower and that tells you almost nothing. The figures at the top are the ones that answer the question, and they turn on the resale value you entered — change it and watch how much moves.

Informational only, not professional advice.This tool compares two ways of paying for the same car on figures you supply. It does not model your state's tax treatment of leases, wear-and-tear charges, gap insurance, early termination, or the opportunity cost of your down payment, and it is not financial or tax advice. Nothing you type is sent anywhere — the arithmetic runs in your browser.

How this is calculated

A lease payment is not a mystery and it is not negotiable magic. It is two numbers added together, and United States federal law requires the lessor to show you both. This tool builds it in the same order the disclosure box on your lease worksheet does.

adjusted cap cost = gross capitalized cost − cash and trade-in put down
depreciation      = adjusted cap cost − residual value
  ÷ term          = the depreciation part of the payment

rent charge       = (adjusted cap cost + residual value) × money factor

lease payment     = depreciation ÷ term + rent charge + other monthly charges
money factor × 2400 = the same cost of money, read as an APR

lease, all in     = cash down + fees + payment × term + disposition + excess miles

The buying side is the ordinary amortization formula — M = P × r ÷ (1 − (1 + r)⁻ⁿ), with r the APR divided by twelve — carried out over the same months the lease would have run:

paid out    = cash down + fees + monthly payment × months elapsed
still owed  = the loan balance at that month, interest first
equity      = what it sells for − still owed

buying, all in = paid out − equity

Why the comparison subtracts what you still own

This is the whole argument of the page. At the end of a three-year lease you hand back the keys and own nothing. At the same moment on a five-year loan you are still making payments and still owe a balance — but you are holding a car. Counting only what left your bank account makes leasing look far better than it is; counting the car you keep, net of the debt still on it, is the only comparison that means anything. So the buying figure here is everything paid out, minusthe equity you would walk away with if you sold that day. When the loan has outrun the car's value, that equity is negative, and the tool says so rather than quietly flooring it at zero.

The source: the disclosure the law already requires

The lease arithmetic here is not our invention. Under the Consumer Leasing Act's Regulation M, 12 CFR § 1013.4(f), a motor-vehicle lease must disclose “a mathematical progression of how the scheduled periodic payment is derived” — and the regulation then names each line: gross capitalized cost, capitalized cost reduction, adjusted capitalized cost, residual value, depreciation and amortized amounts, rent charge, total of base periodic payments, number of payments, base periodic payment, an itemization of other charges, and the total periodic payment. Every lease field on this page is one of those lines, using the regulation's own names, so you can fill the form straight off the paper.

The rent charge formula comes from the Federal Reserve Board's Keys to Vehicle Leasing, which states that to find the monthly rent charge “the money factor is multiplied by the sum of the adjusted capitalized cost and the residual value,” and works the example .00354 × ($31,150) = $110.27. That exact case is pinned as a test in this site's math checks: if our arithmetic ever stops reproducing the Fed's figure, the build fails.

On the money factor, and the 2400

The rent charge is an average-balance approximation rather than an amortization. The lessor's stake in the car falls steadily from the adjusted capitalized cost down to the residual value, so its average over the term is the midpoint of the two — and the money factor is defined as half the monthly interest rate to match, which is why multiplying the two figures rather than their average gives the right answer. Run that backwards and money factor × 2 × 12 × 100 = APR, the familiar multiply-by-2400. The Federal Reserve is explicit that the money factor “is not a lease rate and cannot be converted to a lease rate by moving the decimal point” — which is precisely why a figure like .00250 gets quoted at you instead of 6%. This page prints the conversion next to the loan APR you entered.

Mileage is a cost on one side only

Leases cap your annual mileage and charge for every mile past it, commonly 15 to 30 cents. Drive 18,000 miles a year on a 12,000-mile allowance and a three-year lease ends with an 18,000-mile overage — at 25 cents, $4,500 due at turn-in. A buyer has no such cap. The miles are not free on the buying side either, but they show up as a lower resale value rather than a bill, which is why they belong in the resale figure you enter rather than in a separate charge. Leave the excess-mileage field blank to take mileage out of the comparison entirely.

What this does not cover

Your state's tax treatment. Most states tax each lease payment; some tax the full capitalized cost at signing; a couple tax the whole price of the vehicle even on a lease. No single input could capture that, so tax is entered as a monthly charge on the lease and an up-front amount on the purchase — the same split the federal disclosure uses — and your worksheet has the real figures.

Also excluded: wear-and-tear charges at turn-in, which are real and unpredictable; gap insurance, usually bundled into a lease and bought separately with a loan; early termination, which is punishing on a lease and merely inconvenient on a loan; and the opportunity cost of your down payment — money handed over at signing is money not earning anything, and nothing here is discounted to say so. Insurance and maintenance are left out as broadly similar over the same term, with the caveat that a lease normally stays inside the factory warranty and lessors often require higher liability limits. Finally, every figure is held flat: the resale value you type is the one assumption doing the most work on this page, and it is the one nobody can verify in advance. Change it and re-read the answer before you sign anything.

Last reviewed: August 2026

Frequently asked questions

Why is the lease payment lower but the lease still more expensive?

Because the two payments are not buying the same thing, and comparing them is the single most reliable way to be talked into the wrong deal. A lease payment covers only the depreciation you use during the term — the difference between what the car is capitalized at and what it is expected to be worth when you hand it back — plus a rent charge on the lessor's money. A loan payment buys the entire car, including the part of it that is still worth $19,000 in three years. So the lease payment is nearly always lower, and that fact carries almost no information about which option costs less. What settles it is what you have at the end: leasing leaves you nothing, buying leaves you a car you can sell. This tool subtracts that resale value, minus whatever is still owed on the loan, from the buying side — and then the two figures are actually comparable.

What is a money factor, and how do I compare it to a loan's APR?

The money factor is the lease's interest rate wearing a disguise. It is a small decimal — .00250 is a typical one — that the lessor multiplies by the sum of the adjusted capitalized cost and the residual value to get the monthly rent charge. Multiply the money factor by 2400 and you get the equivalent annual percentage rate: .00250 × 2400 is 6.0%. That works because the money factor is half the monthly interest rate, since the lessor's outstanding stake falls steadily from the cap cost to the residual, averaging the two; half the monthly rate times twelve months times 100 is the rate times 2400. The Federal Reserve warns specifically that the money factor "is not a lease rate and cannot be converted to a lease rate by moving the decimal point." This tool prints the converted APR next to the loan APR you entered, because the whole reason the number is quoted in that form is that 6.0% and .00250 do not feel like the same thing.

What should I put for what the car will be worth at the end?

The lease itself hands you the best available answer, and almost nobody notices. The residual value written into the lease is the leasing company's own professional forecast of what that exact car will be worth on that exact date — produced by people who do this for a living and who lose money when they get it wrong. Copy it into the resale field and you have a defensible estimate rather than a guess. Two caveats. Residuals are sometimes set artificially high as a subsidised incentive to make a payment look attractive, which would flatter the buying side here. And your own mileage matters: a buyer has no mileage cap, but the miles still come out of what the car sells for, so if you drive well over the lease allowance, mark the resale figure down. Since this input moves the result more than any other, run it two or three ways rather than once.

Does this account for sales tax, insurance, and maintenance?

Tax, partly and by your hand rather than ours; insurance and maintenance, not at all. States tax leases in genuinely different ways — most tax each monthly payment, a few tax the full price of the car at signing — so instead of guessing at a model that would be wrong somewhere, the tool gives you an "other charges per month" field on the lease and a "taxes and fees paid up front" field on the purchase. That mirrors how the federal disclosure itemises them, and your worksheet lists the actual figures. Insurance and maintenance are left out because they are broadly similar either way over the same three or four years, with two real exceptions worth knowing: leases usually stay inside the factory warranty for their whole term, and lessors typically require higher liability limits than a lender does. If those matter in your case, price them separately — you can put the monthly difference into the other-charges field.

Once you know how you are paying for the car, the next question is what the miles themselves cost. Work that out with the EV vs. Gas Cost Calculator or, if the choice is between two different cars rather than two ways of paying for one, the Break-Even Mileage Calculator.

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